Massirat Watan Photo Blog

Sunday October 1st. It’s the first day of Massirat Watan and we have a great turnout on martyr’s Square to walk with us to Chouyfat.

As we head out of Maryr’s Square, my kind friend Patrick gives us his flag that he has been carrying since the Spring of 2005. the Flag that is to become the symbol of our walk around the countrythe first day and I already feel like this……I don’t know if I have made a “comfortable”choice, but I think it is the right choice.Old House, Old car, New Friends. Needs a polish but still looking the part.Second Day on the road and we already have a fan base. Busy rebuilding our infrastructure one Syrian at a time. Or maybe they just like us because we are dressed like them! Never too Safe!Graffiti by the motorway heading towards Damour. there’s anger in the air and garbage on the groundI had hear of Abou Abed before but never of Abou Rakhousa. what a great name for a one dollar shop!125 is still the number to call for an Ambulance, but you’ll have to wait a long time for this  one….left to rust by the side of the roadBonding with the locals. a very nice man who runs a garage. over the course of the next few weeks we will get to see that car repair is a major business category in Lebanon. No public transport, lots of private cars….some people are happyJiyeh here we comeWe can’t Stop says the strange sign in the middle of nowhereBut it’s hot and we need to restSo is it going to be Mateh or coffee?Syrians Laborers everywhere, and there really is not stopping for coffee before their day is done

So we stop in Damour for a meeting with wonderful people from the village. meeting is in a local dispensary. I loved the Old Skool filing system they have for patients.Bizri anyone? freshly caughtBut for some strange reason,here, they cut their heads off. Wasn’t there an old peoples’ tale about how when you eat the head of the fish it made you smarter?  People in Jiyeh must be already smart enough!

SO, this guy thinks it’s fun to put your sculpture in front of your house that is on the main road. and why not….. except that I think he looks like Louis de Funes!Oh, and here’s the house! Maybe he is related to Trump and not Louis de FunesAs we pass Jihey and the oil tankers, I wonder what kids are busy doing in math and calculating the diameter of T10 and T11 with the assumption that both have a height of 15 meters!Orhan Bey. Ottoman slowly coming back into the Lebanese sub-culture and sub conscienceOh.. I know this place. the infamous Bamboo Bay. Oh so many parties and beach daysBut 200 meters past the Snazzy beaches is this 20 meter high raw garbage dump by the side of the motorway. the garbage crisis is not being resolved, just being hiddenAnd of Course, because the garbage mountain can’t get higher, they burn it. just to make sure that the air and the underground waters are now as polluted as the soil!Ready to leave Jadra for Saida….No walk around Lebanon is complete without the customary stop to visit the guardians of the higher spheres. Here they are running a school, and we thought we would drop  by to give them some copies of the constitution to share with their students.Walk kindly fueled by BioliciousAs we are stopped by a nice fruit seller who heard about us on TV!

On the Northern entrance to Saida is Zaytouna C, Previously Zeitouna B until they got asked by the “original Bay” in Beirut to change their name. Glad to know that trademarks are sometimes respected, at least within the Hariri Sphere of influence!I guess in Saida people are not very good at aiming at a basket.Ohh the beautiful colours of the rivers. Glad you can’t smell, and can dream that the green is some shade of purity.

It’s clear what city we are inAt least it’s obvious. NO tickets on sale here (at the Saida municipal stadium)Ohh the Beautiful beaches of SaidaKept clean thanks to the Kind frenchOr Maybe not so clean and the garbage is just well hiddenSunset in Saida and another day is over.The guard was not very happy seeing me take a picture. maybe he thought he was guarding some nuclear plant!Well the smell of rotting garbage was so strong we had to get our masks out. We could have done with the German gas mask variety!And today we enter a Brave new World1.2 Million cars! That’s a lot of tires to change. In fact, as we walk, I seem to believe that our economy is largely built on Rubbish, cars, and fuel stations. Occasionally food!Me and my new friends. We could play “spot the Lebanese”. Note, I lost….conic architecture south of Saida. Not sure what they were thinkingAlong the road, we got stopped by the guy who runs a cafe Express, and who invited us for coffee as he had heard about us on TVPuts a Pin on his stand and tells us it will still be here this time next yearTuesday, from Akbiyeh to Adloun. A light breakfast mankouche StyleWe look like a Banana Republic from hereOur first stop is in Venise by AkbiyehAnd Murano by SarafandWhere they are preparing some Christmas decorations to be sold to the posh crowd of Beirut

If I had my pen-knife, I would make a Miknesseh…bas bala Assayeh!Al Fresco living with bed, TV and sitting room overflowing on the street. They must have had the in-laws visiting Someone got a different memo on building a “strong state”. At least he doesn’t have to worry about parkingBlack Dress for a Black dayTime for a break by the seaFrom far, it looked like an arc of seashells….but from near it looks like all the other beaches in Lebanon

But there is a hope, as we visit a locally developed recycling plant where people are bringing their sorted garbage in their own cars

Hage FatmehLa Provence au Liban

Late lunch by the old Roman pool and ruins, surrounded by Banana plantations I always forget that we eat bananas upside down… or maybe they just grow the wrong way!Filling the more modern poolA quick PicBefore the local kids jump inDon’t under estimate the SOUTH! the iChair is here and everyone else is still waiting for the Iphone XFortunately we have peace in Lebanon..not so much in Korea thanks to Trump….so soon we may be able to return the favour and send a contingent to Korea..GLORY TO LEBANON PEACE TO KOREANever before have I seen a motorcycle seat dressed for a wedding Seems that plate numbers are optional down here. At least this one is an improvement on yesterday’s van!Pumpkin man…it’s autumnYou see everything when you walk. Animals Lebanon didn’t make it on time to save this oneThis coffee shop has done something amazingThe mezzanine has been converted into a giant bird cage with tens of beautiful birdsDay 7 took us to Tyre, and past the 100km mark. fortunately we made it before the rainIf you have spare change in your swimsuit as you go for a dip in Tyr, the good causes are well positionedTo Start the next say a hearty breakfast of fool and Balila The Breakfast of championsThat can be eaten in or delivered to your home by Ali on his scooter, who very skillfully caries a tray with full option breakfast that includes pickles and warm bread….all with one handSkillful scootering must be a thing in TyrFood Porn is being taken to a new level in TyrI guess this sign came up many years ago. Now it would lead to the kitchenThis guy came to walk with us today. Not sure what he was thinking. Maybe he is wearing the summer ministerial uniform already…Gladly he didn’t make it past 3kmA message from the wise Gods on our cups of teaIt seems that universities in Lebanon have become like the Mondiale. We have the US, the UK, the French and now the Germans. All we are missing is the Brazilians. But of course we also have the LebaneseThe rubbish in Tyr is definitely not Halal…..As an aside I recommend that anyone interested in FMCG market research should take a walk on our roads. The rubbish is continuous but the variety and brands changeReady for action as we approach the borderI feel very much at homeApocalypse not now, but soon if this country continues like thisA start of a new day at the most amazing Orange House where the lovely Mona is, against all odds, maintaining the only turtle nesting sanctuary in LebanonSea turtles are extremely delicate creatures and very susceptible to their environment. the building of a hotel further up the beach by Berri is endangering this habitat where turtles return after 20 years to their birth spot in order to lay their eggs. Mona has taken to our cause, like we have to her’sSuzakai is to Suzuki what Hyundai is to Honda!Not quite the White cliffs of Dover, but Bayada on the MedMulticulturalism as we approach the border. who ever said we can’t all be friends? Special delivery of Foul and corn on the beautiful sand beach of Nakoura. East your heart out RioSpecial delivery of Foul and corn on the beautiful sand beach of Nakoura. East your heart out RioPALASTAIN …here we comeWorld’s end ..the Border . No pictures pleaseEnd of Day, but not end of the roadI don’t think this guy has recovered from the 2006 war. Or maybe the way people drive out here has inspired this. Specially the pink stethoscope.Chess and Narguileh on the streets.. Practicing strategy and patience. Two important virtuesHarry Potter meets Nabih Berri (he whose name shall not be mentioned). Not sure who is the better magicianThere are empty fridges everywhere in the south. Must be a story somewhere. If they start throwing fridges across the border during the next war, don’t be surprised!Great advertisement for a flat-bed!If you don’t need your tires repaired, they’ll wash your towels insteadBlue eyes on the espresso machineIf your Khoury Home machine repair is taking longer than expected, maybe they have sent it down here for special careHoula. Sight of one of the first (and sadly not last) Israeli massacres of innocent women and children in 1948. Over 80  civilians killed when they were rounded up and placed in a house that was then blown up. This is not a flag you often see. Lebanese communist party. A classic in revivalAll roads lead to Rome, Jerusalem…..and AcaciaGreat signage. Only way is up for the UNBlue eyesStrong ArmyVista on the Palestinian MontanaOccupation agriculture..probably sold in Europe somewhere…not sure if they are using pesticides, but surely not organic in spiritFlying the flag over the occupationHere is the inspiration for the Trump wall. the beauty of walls is that they hide the scum behind. So the Mexicans should be happy to be sheltered from seeing the Yankees.I spy with my little eyeThere is a strange king of peace garden set-up, with sports equipment. The resistance can train any time any place!They tell a lot of jokes in this cafe Abou Abed….but the state of our parliament is no joking mattersn’t so much fun here……..Actually not…take me home!Change of country yesterday. But no customs border. A bit like the EU, but not quiteOut here they have succession planning all figured out. No need for Apple’s new face recognition software to know who is who How many army personnel does it take to change a light bulb? Climbing up to Chebaa…..end of the Country..last occupied landsStairway to heaven on the way to ChebaaThe perfect resting place on the way up the mountainNot quite Burj Khalifa in Chebaa, but this hospital is so big and out of place on this empty mountain that it sure feels like a world record….Thank you KhalifaBalace inside and out! but nothing compares to the house of the Rais baladiyeh….King of the Hill…the Rais…Welcome to my humble home, Full set of cake and ribbon cutting pictures on the wall. Celebrating UNIFIL with an open mind. The cake is Halal but not the drinks!Welcome to my village. The Old Man and the MountainThis wonderful old lady and her husband were our neighbours and breakfast partners.Autumn leavesLeaving the high mountainsThese trees used to be found in most villages, but sadly no more. here it is being honoured by a roundabout. And why not!Shoufi-mafi bi hal Market? Everyone here is ready for the upcoming Mondial, with these football themed water tankers on the roofsAnd I Guess they will be supporting Argentina as they drink Mate….Aren’t we proud of Lebanon’s fusion of cultures!This beautiful old olive tree didn’t get a roundabout, but it is sure to give great oil this yearIf you are climbing up the wall, be careful, there are people climbing back down!A choir of SingersIf you miss the written sign at the door, there is always the poster to remind you whose house this is!The infamous Lebanese entrepreneur strikes again! We are the best!After a quick visit to the beautiful Shehab Palace.Getting ready to leave Rashaya

Message in the Bottle! Ingenious electricity system for connecting to the local networkUNHCR hard at work again, building for refugees! Please don’t forget your donations! This little Balace is just perfect for a family from Aleppo!Dont Touch MY car! I think this bumper sticker has been copyrighted for KSA now that women will be able to drive!Never fast enoughSunset on Mount LebanonKuluna Lil Watan!As we stop for coffee we are greeting by this smiley little face. the future of this country. we hope he will keep smilingFlying carpet delivered to your door.Why is it that all carpet salesmen in Lebanon drive Volvo Station Wagons?Payphone to heaven- calling cards acceptedThe famous citadel of Hasbaya, an important stop for the Massirat as it is steeped in the history of independence of Lebanon and the founding constitutionYou may note that i have missed a few stops, but I have had to travel for work….bills to pay!Up the Mountain to Arsal, famous for their cherries, and Syrian refugee camps. In fact, these patches across the mountain are camps! 60,000 refugees are now in the village, down from 100,000. Each family lives in a tent and they rent the land for their tent at 50 usd a month from the land owner. Not quite refugee RBnB, but I am sure that the landlords will think of something soon.Well here is someone who has graduated in Style! repairs computers, Blay Station and water heaters! please keep his number handyInstead of martyrs….in Arsal they have a sky full of graduates! Big Improvement, even though I am not quite sure what they graduated in.And those who don’t graduate end up drilling for oil; or in this case cleaning a dirty drain pipe in the middle of the road, and getting a nice kaff from his master for complaining. I suggest to bring Beiruti kids up the the Bekaa to complete their educationRoom with a view“Acqua” Marketing! Soha and Sannine better get their act together!Abou something….The only Kandargi left in the area. And soon to retire I hope!No access to this garage, for quite some time. I was told that they are laying internet cables. Maybe fibre to those UNHCR tents up the mountain?Back down the mountain into the Bekaa and Black licra leggings are all the rage. Tres Chic! Needless to say, they sell Almaza in this villageSalut Beau gosseA Developer’s show home in the distance…for refugees.This can be yours for 50 usd and a copy of your UNHCR card. The tree in the foreground set in concrete is not a conceptual art installation. It is a trap for birds that hunters light at night in order to attract the poor animals

A Chinese looking mar Elias, with a beard longer than mine, and who looks rather menacing with his big sword Never seen this car before, but apparently it is a classic. Renault?

A $ sign to inspire your prayers

Al Qaa now has a Logo! Saatchi & Saatchi busy at work

I’m still standing Yeh Yeh Yeh… Not sure how this happened!Electric installations worth selling to EDF 

If anyone is looking for a novel wedding spot to impress their guests with…On the northern border with Syria; Very exclusive and Chic

Who the hell is watching who? there is no one anywhere around. Not even sheep

The Hunters of Qaa getting acquainted with the constitution. Fortunately there is no second amendment guaranteeing the right to carry 

Men at work…and Man at playAs we leave the Bekaa, we get a final farewell with some Sfiha.

High fashion to keep your head warm in this cold weather….with matching Teddy to keep you companyThe state always looking good and making its presence felt

Heading to Hermel on fresh AsphaltSolar lamps are such a great idea for public spaces…..specially if you need a spare battery for your car!The restaurant is looking like a giant trout farmMother nature stops for no-one. The Assi river is overflowing, the politicians are making promises and I am not sure who believes themAnd here is a beauty that escaped….or not quite

A visit to the beautiful old homes of HermelPalace outside, cool chimney inside!The beauty of Brass..is that the momento lasts a very looooong time, even when you may have wished to forget

My new friendInto the Akkar we go. they wont be taking your Spinneys loyalty card here!Room with a view…and not for the refugees!Not any  old second hand shoes sold here! ready to Party??Shopping anyone?This Lady is very pregnant and walking past garbage burning in the open air. Novartis Oncology is going to be very happy in Lebanon!If anyone is still looking for OBL….I think I found himLeft-over paint is always useful for painting the garden. Nice deco touch!A hair cut and a constitutional lessonWho needs Amazon prime when you can get all spare parts for your Vespa delivered straight to your door by this amazing vanDinner time near Halba after a long day. nothing like a little fresh goat protein.I bump into Mar Charbel in Qobeyat the weekend they are unveiling the Mar Charbel statue in St Patrick in NYC. I suggest a movement for bringing St Patrick to Lebanon in reciprocitytwelve year olds on bikes..showing off

 

On the other side of this bridge is Syria, across Nahr el Khabir. Border not so well protected, but quite beautiful Out of Africa. some parts of Akkar are reminding me of my trips to the Great Continent

At least the graffiti got it right! “Rubbish is increasing and people are blind”Overweight Smelly luggageAmmar is dreaming of New York, or maybe he is the Tripoli version of BO18 locally called B13This poor kid is just hanging there. Maybe meditating…in a pile of garbage. He looks like a surreal garden gnome.Al Arida, the Northen border between Lebanon and SyriaThe Border is quieter than usual…but then most Syrians from Alepo are already in LebanonBut we still got invited in for a “coffee” from the local Army Intelligence officer. he offered is water, but he only had one glass for six people…pass the bucketOut in time for sunsetReady for another day. soon we will be seeing Tripoli on the horizonSomeone is trying to trip up the Massirat!Looks like someone’s house…!Rumein By the road side. at least this trash heap is biodegradable

The 2017 Tripoli style TchadorYes, no pictures please…..the waves are real and he design is awaiting a TM before being sent to the Milan Furniture fair

Hot Bread out of the oven…ohhhh the smell (which is even Gluten free!)In memory of the fallen soldiers during the 2007 battel in Nahr el BaredCultured taxi driver reading the constitution. He is mesmerized by its simplicity and completenessSome expat has comeback with a concept. Australian meat at the entrance to Akkar. The future is looking Chic!And not too far is the “Malhamet el Shaab”…. freshly butchered sheep for  the masses. Looks yummy and the price is quite competitive. Yes, we once had a refinery in Lebanon! Now we can’t even refine our ideas!Vintage truck with yet more tiresPoor government services….no problem…local distribution of water. Rinse and repeat for electricity. at least this one looks rather artisticAnd for immediate washing needs you can pick any of these colourful bucketsRecycle! nothing must go to waste! Anyone interested in computer parts can head to to hot Tripoli neighbourhood of  Bab el Tabene. Not the latest motherboards, but could come in handy for an artistic installation.Not quite Clandestine, but discreet, meeting with the youth of Jabal Mohsen and babel tebeneh. In a small alley away from the general gaze of passers by we talk constitution and state buildingAnd here I am, on what was not so long ago a front line against DaeshParking meters are not Halal in TripoliIt seems that Mar Charbel is everywhere. Even in the Tripoli souk, where Hage Fouad has great Baby Shower ideasSwan lake at the local pastry shopLouis Vuitton inspired toilet in Tripoli. Tres chic Cherie Hawaii here we comeHappy Birthday Elie. cool caravan Business diversification Harvard business school style. a hair cut and a new phone charger anyone?A dying breed. one of the few remaining brass artisans. One of the oldest monasteries. And one of the only points where you can see both Tripoli and BeirutLocal Aishti….Not sure copy-write has arrived in Anfeh yet. The Old Man and the Sea reading the constitutionWith tasty crabs at his feetSunset in AinfehIndustrial disease

Nothing, not even concrete, stands in the way of nature

Climbing the RockThrough the tunnel of LoveNever seen A church with a Helipad….fly straight into Jesus’ armsNo Heli-pad for the local school that is about 10% the size of the church. Jesus is taking care of learning in this village!

Fresh Lemonade town

Just in case anyone is wondering, this is an upgrade from Sea Salt

Ready to welcome Massirat WatanI’ve been away for the last few days, and now back ready for the final stretch back to Beirut from AnteliasWith the support of family, friends and supportersAll busy handing out the Lebanese constitutionNo time to rest, we have a big crowd waiting for us in BeirutAll the attractions are out to greet usAs are the crowds on Martyrs’ SquareThe magnificent twelve who started this adventure, united on the podiumAnd the adventure goes on, until we have build the State we dream of and we deserve